The Almalfi Coast
October 22nd, 2007
The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s jewels, a dramatic, rugged, craggy mountainous region with sheer wall cliffs plunging into the sea, similar to the area around Cinque Terra. The difference being that the entire area has developed into one of Italy’s most popular tourist destination. It includes Capri, Naples, Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii, the Peninsula of Sorrento, and the picturesque hilltop towns of Positano, Almafi and Salerno. I have been here twice before, but never viewing it strictly from the sea. Driving along the Amalfi Coast is undeniably thrilling, breath-taking, but cruising the coast and seeing everything from the water is simply amazing. The pastel colors of buildings are fading a bit the further south we go, a little more washed out but still characteristically colorful.
We left Rome Oct. 7th and sailed 108 miles to a tiny island off the Sorrento Peninsula called Procida. From there we went to the nearby and larger island of Ischia and anchored in a quiet little harbor for several days. While there we took a ferry to Naples for the day and during our return sat next to a woman, Carol, who had just arrived on an Italian cooking/sightseeing holiday. Ahh, just what I was looking for. Her sister, the group’s organizer squeezed me into the group giving me the chance to participate in two cooking lessons, one a demonstration, and one a hands-on session. In the hands-on class we created a delicious lunch including calzones filled with fresh mozzarella, fresh ricotta and parmesan cheese, gnocchi with a rich reduced tomato sauce, a main course of sea bass with capers and black olives and, finally, one of my all time favorites tiramisu. Upon completion, we sat down at a long table, toasted ourselves and ‘manga-ed’. I learned several interesting things:
1) That the cuisine of
Italy is quite different north to south, such as in the north, Balsamic vinegar is a staple of the table, but in central and southern Italy, it isn’t used it at all; 2) The further south you go the more “al dente” the pasta becomes; 3) From Naples south you start seeing ‘pasta ali’ arrabbiate’ on the menu which translates as ‘angry’ tomato sauce, highlighted with lots of red hot peppers and garlic. The street lined produce markets are adorned with hanging strands of tiny dried red peppers which are fire engine hot. They are beautiful to look at and wonderful to add to sauces, soups or whatever; 4) The buffalo mozzarella, the small round mounds of tender mild white cheese made for centuries only in this area is actually made from the milk of water buffalo which were imported from India around AD 600; 5) One chef recommended starting with a cold pan instead of a hot oiled pan when introducing onions, garlic and which ever vegetables are being sautéed in preparation of the dish. She claims that by using a cold pan, piling everything in at once and then pouring just a little bit of olive oil on top, less oil will be used. I have tried this method and am very happy with it, especially for eggplant which seems to soak up excessive amounts of olive oil while sautéing; 6) Once the pasta is al dente, drain the water, but don’t worry about getting all of the water out of the pan because a small amount is useful to the sauce in that the remaining starch helps the pasta to capture the sauce rather than letting it slide off on to the plate. Also, round tube pasta is always better to use because the sauce can get into and all around the outside, bathing the pasta in the luscious sauce.
I am hoping to find a Sicilian cooking class during my month in Sicily. I know that this may sound sacrilege to some Italian cuisine lovers, but I am actually getting a little overwhelmed with all of the flour in pasta and gnocchi. I am looking forward to cooking something different, hopefully fresh swordfish and local tuna. We continue eating plump, luscious figs, sweet round tomatoes, very tender slender type eggplant, and cannoli, loved by all Italians and referred to as ‘the gift from the gods’.
The Amalfi Coast and The Sorrentine Peninsula encompass many villages, islands, historical and natural reserves, archaeological remains, wine-making and culinary heritage, architectural monuments and legends as old as life itself. The following represents a brief peek into what we have seen, tasted and done while in this most amazing area of Italy. Dotted high in the hilltops of this rugged landscape are 2000 years old, ‘vacation villas’ built by the wealthy and elite senatorial class of ancient Rome. It was a symbol of status to have one of these immense summer homes. Many of the villas or perhaps the ruins of the villas are still visible today and as striking as ever. They were constructed out the same limestone as the cliffs themselves, giving some of them an almost invisible façade.
Positano, another well known and photographed hilltop city has lost much of the charm and uniqueness which I loved and remembered so well from previous trips. The old adage of ‘you just can’t go back’ was brought to mind as we stepped ashore and saw that most of the artesian shops and works previously displayed and sold in this wonderful old place have been replaced with boutique shops, all selling the same fashion. The only things that have remained the same are the ancient well worn steps, twisting and turning up the steep slopes of the village. Most of these medieval villages along the Amalfi Coast use steep steps and cobblestone ramps to connect the community with its occupants or community with the sea.
Just 3 miles off the coast of Positano are the islands of The Sirenuse. These three solitary rocky islets were considered to be the dwelling of the Sirens, mythical figures that attracted seafarers with their chants, often causing them to wreck. According to The Odyssey, Odysseus was warned:
‘You will come to the Sirens, they who bewitch all men. Whoever sails near them unaware shall never again see his wife and children once he has heard the Siren voices. They enchant him with their clear songs, as they sit in a meadow that is heaped with the bones of dead men, bones on which still hangs their shriveled skin. Drive your ship past this place, and so that your men do not hear their song, soften some beeswax and with it seal their ears. But if you yourself should wish to listen to the Sirens, get your men to bind you hand and foot with ropes against the mast-step. In this way you may listen in rapture to the voices of the two Sirens. But should you begin to beg your comrades to unloose you, you must make sure that they bind you even more tightly’ The Odyssey, Book 12
Michael and I traveled to Naples twice trying to capture the energy, passion and personality of the wild and vivacious city called Napoli. Sadly, both times we came away exhausted, frustrated and disillusioned. It is true, Naples is filled with a palpable frenetic energy and a buzzing sensation…. the frantic chaotic movement of Vespas careening about, swerving in and out of traffic, creating a buzz, like the buzz of a million mosquitoes swarming your head Naples is a city where just crossing the street can be a hair raising if not dangerous experience. One of our travel guides suggested continual eye contact with the driver of the oncoming car to make sure that you let the driver know that you mean business and have no intentions of giving way to him! The streets are irregular, lacking any discernable grid or pattern. The names of the streets must be known by all Neopolitans because there aren’t any street names or directional signs posted anywhere! Of course, we could have made it easier on ourselves and accepted the offer for ‘a guide for the day’, instead of declining, sensing a scam descending upon us. But the pizza, ahhhh, it made the trip all worth while as we returned to pizzeria Da Michele. Still, I really wanted to love Naples. Looming over
We have been in a terrific storm for the past 3 days. We saw it coming via the internet weather program we use and started looking for a secure marina where we could moor Aphrodite. I am so grateful we did because the wind was crazy for 3 solid days, gusting to 40 kts inside the protected marina seawall. We were blown around, the lines whined against the strain of the pull, the halyards clanked and banged against masts and the wind howled loudly through the rigging.. We both woke up several times a night with that awful eerie feeling of “is the boat OK?” As I got up one night to check on things I saw a bunch of white things bobbing on the surface of the water just in front of the boat. It took my eyes a few minutes and my mind to register the sight. It was a flock of seagulls waiting out the storm. Even they were hiding from the wind! Yesterday the winds were so bitter cold we stayed inside all day with the heater on. Once I saw the clouds part long enough to see a dusting of snow on the caps of nearby mountains. I hope this is just a weather pattern and not representative of the normal late autumn early winter weather. Tomorrow we are off to Sicily In preparation we watched all three “The Godfather” movies!.
