S/V Aphrodite

We succeeded in converting a hearty, rugged, ‘of-the-earth’ desert trip into a cushy, comfortable, luxurious experience! 

The original plan was to rent a car, drive to Douz, ‘the gateway to the Sahara’, organize an overnight camel expedition into the desert, sleep in Nomad tents, eat simple food cooked over an open fire and really experience the whole desert adventure.  But, the more I researched, the more I learned that my plans were not feasible for this time of the year.  It is bloody cold in the desert at night in the winter.  I also learned that the most stunning area of the desert is about 100 miles south of Douz which would require at least a 4 day camel trip.   Most people rent a 4 wheel drive vehicle in Douz for the last 100 miles, but we decided to take a risk and just use our regular rental car (all rental cars are 4 WD by definition, right?) to make the entire trip.

On our way to our destination, Ksar Ghilane, we stopped at Matmata to see the troglodyte dwellings, where the Star Wars movies were filmed.  It was amazing.  The origin of these homes is known to date as far back as the first century BC.  The design is brilliant.  They are completely underground, a series of tunnels and caves, just like in the movies.  Some of the Star Wars sets are still there, although we did not see them. 

The dwellings are either sunk into the soft rock of a hillside or built in a pit-style construction into the ground.  All of the rooms open to a central courtyard, not unlike any typical courtyard design, except for the fact that everything is subterranean.  Imagine entering a main doorway, following a tunnel which leads to an interior room which then opens to the open air courtyard containing a fire pit and steps to rooms located on the second level.  

First we toured a troglodyte museum. Then we were taken into a local’s home where we got a glimpse of their lives.  It was such a treat to meet the matriarch of the family, an 83 year old Berber woman, who served us mint tea and flat pan bread straight from her simple kitchen.  Our plan was to stay in the troglodyte hotel used in the Star Wars film, but when we arrived we opted for a little more comfort and moved to an above ground hotel, my, we are getting persnickety in our old age! 

The actual trip into the desert was less demanding than we expected.  Having had lots of desert experience, our Australian mates insisted on packing loads of water, food and warm clothing, “just in case, mate!”  The only time we needed to traverse soft sand was at the entrance of our ‘desert resort’.  Other than that the roads were clear and well maintained.  The risk, of course, is that if the wind kicks up the sand gets blown into heaps, often covering the simple two lane road  Approaching it reminded me of all of the oasis pictures I have seen, sand for as far as the eye can see except a bit of green in the distance which gets larger and larger the closer you get.  The oasis is fed by hot springs and surrounded by towering date palms.  There is a small hot springs pool in the center of the camping area, probably heavily used in peak season.

Since it is the off season now, we had the resort almost all to ourselves.  The place is beautiful, very romantic and dreamy, but the staff is not especially helpful so we had to hustle up some activities on our own.  It didn’t take long for Angela or me to establish ourselves in the small Berber/Bedouin community of men who live in tiny huts selling local handmade Berber rugs or offering camel and horseback rides.  Angela’s contact came while she was stretched out on a sand dune enjoying the desert quiet when a gorgeous Bedouin man galloped up to her side and asked her if she would like to go for a ride!  Within seconds he deposited his young niece and put Angela into the saddle.  He rode bareback behind her.  Great story, don’t you think?  She negotiated a good rate for a 2 hour horseback ride for the following morning.  Meanwhile, I was negotiating a 2 hour camel ride for sunset.  All of us had ridden horseback so there was nothing particularly novel about it, other than we were leaving our footprints in the sand of the Sahara.  But camel riding was a first for 3 of the 4 of us.

Camels, now those are some disgusting animals!!!!  I had no idea.  But the experience was terrific.  I had read that camel riding was definitely not for everyone, so I was just a tiny bit concerned how my back and knees were going to do, especially after spending 2 hours on a horse earlier in the day.  But to my surprise and complete delight, I loved it.  The motion is much gentler than a horse.  But the animal….that is something different.  Just getting on the camel was enough of a hoot to make the price worthwhile.  We have a few short video clips for your enjoyment.   My camel was disgusting though; he gurgled like he had a gallon of water sloshing around inside of him, foamed at the mouth, whistled, hissed and had an incredible tongue thing going on.  It was really disgusting.  It looked like a huge, red, blue veined tumor which filled with air, hung out the side of his mouth and then receded back into his mouth.  No one else’s camel was doing it.  When I got home I looked it up on the internet and discovered that it was part of a mating activity!!!!  Gross.  Michael was able to capture a shot of it so look for it.  Other than that, I was surprised how much I enjoyed the ride.  I would definitely consider a several day camel trek in the future.

Now, a word about the incredible sand and the beautiful Bedouin men…. The sand, ahhh, unlike any sand I have felt.  If the sand on Siesta Key in front of Mom’s house is like powdered sugar, this is like talcum powder (Angela’s simile) or a pile of cinnamon.  There is no moisture content what so ever, so when it gets disturbed, either by wind or foot, it just billows up into the air and gently drifts away.  There isn’t any sensation of grit, until it gets into your eyes or mouth.  When I was running my fingers over it, it reminded me of the sensation my tongue feels while licking a soft serve ice cream cone, the gentle giving way of the top layer of ice cream on the slightly denser lower level.

Now, the Bedouin men, there just isn’t anything to say that a picture won’t say.