If you have not traveled extensively in the Caribbean or don’t have a clear picture in your mind of which islands belong to the Windward, Leeward, Lesser or Greater Antilles I hope this map and the following explanation will help you orient yourself to where we are and where we are going.

The West Indies, synonymous with the eastern portion of the Caribbean Islands, sweep in a huge arc, making a bridge of giant-sized stepping stones from Florida to Venezuela.  These islands are called the West Indies because when Christopher Columbus landed here (actually in San Salvador of The Bahamas) in 1492 he believed that he had reached the Indies, in Asia. Once his error was realized, Spain renamed the chain of islands from the Indies to West Indies, delineating them from East Indies of the Far East.   

The West Indies separate the Caribbean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean and are comprised of 3 main groups: the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles and Lesser Antilles.  The Greater Antilles include Cuba, Jamaica, Haiti/ The Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico.  The Lesser Antilles are the much smaller islands to the southeast, where we currently are, and are divided into two groups: the Windward, and the Leeward Islands. 

The Windward Islands make up the southeastern end of the chain, from Martinique in the north to Grenada in the south.  Windward and Leeward are names given to the chain of islands by the British.  They had two concepts in mind: The Windward’s because they are located more windward to the sailing ships arriving in the New World, given that the prevailing trade winds across the Atlantic Ocean blow east to west and, in order for them to get to these southeastern islands from their currently owned Leeward Islands, they had to sail, often beating into the wind.

 We are currently in St. Lucia, near the northern most area of the Windward’s.  These islands are mere tips of a volcanic mountain range that developed along a rift in the Earth’s crust where the Atlantic and Caribbean tectonic plates collided.  The Atlantic side of the islands rises steep and sheer with pounding surf while the Caribbean side has gentle seas and beautiful beaches.

St Lucia is a lush tropical volcanic rainforest island complete with hot sulphur springs venting from two stunning Pitons which erupt skyward straight out of the sea.  The Pitons are in the southwestern end of the island, the opposite end of the high density tourist destinations along the northwestern portion of the island.  The Pitons and surrounding costal region are part of a marine preserve rich in coral gardens and reef fish. 

Anchoring is not permitted, but mooring balls are provided in a variety of locations allowing cruising boats controlled access to the preserve.   We have been anchored in front of an old converted (to beach resort) sugar mill plantation dripping with elegant charm, towering coconut palms and a pristine white sandy beach.  While here we met and spent time with a lovely British family on holiday.  The “kids” Rebecca and Neal, spent an afternoon sailing and snorkeling with us on Aphrodite while their parents remained on land with their darling little 7 month old baby.  This is one of the pleasures of our lifestyle.  We often meet people on land and end up having them join us for a day on Aphrodite, or in one case, in the dinghy, searching for the famous Blue Cave on the Greek island of Kastellorizon.

Our entire family visited St. Lucia 17 years ago, staying predominately in the northern end of the island.   4 of the group who were completing their open water portion of the scuba training made the drive along the coast and through the rainforest every day for a nearly a week.  Upon their completion, the rest of us who were already certified divers joined them for several spectacular dives in the marine preserve along the Piton’s underwater walls.  I remember it being some of the best diving I have ever done anywhere, vibrant colors, dramatic steep to sheer walls alive with coral and sea life.

We have not done any diving this trip.  Sometimes it is better to realize “that you just can’t go back”.  We have done lots of snorkeling though, WITH THE DOGS! We are quite a site… imagine 2 dogs swimming along side of us, Brisa dunking Costa’s head showing her dominance, him coming up with the look of terror on his face and trying to climb up one of our backs, Michael tossing him back into the dinghy, which is tethered to one of us, trailing along behind us, but he doesn’t like being alone in the dinghy so he cries and then jumps back into the water and the whole thing repeats itself.  We learned the dunking trick from Brisa, who used to climb up our backs.  Now we dunk her once and she leaves us alone.  Once Costa is a confident swimmer we will have to do the same with him I imagine.  

Tomorrow we will make our way back to the northern tip of the island, Rodney Bay, crisscrossing our previous tracks along this gentle side of the island.  From here we will cross the passage to Martinique, the French island just north of St. Lucia.  Our plan is to take giant steps north along the stepping stones leading to Florida.  Which islands we shall stop at are as yet undetermined.

       

Following  18.5 days at sea, we made landfall yesterday morning at St Lucia, the largest of the English speaking Windward Islands, under blue skies whilst flying the spinnaker.  The last several  days of the trip we got to experience the trade winds that we had expected to have had all the way - I certainly didn’t believe that we would use nearly all of our fuel motoring.    After refueling ($4/gal.), we decided to tie up at a marina for a few days to clean the boat and do the laundry.  We checked in followed by snacks and drinks in a local pub, then we went out to dinner at a very good (expensive) restaurant called Buzz to celebrate our trip.  The name may have come from the loud sounds the local tree frogs were making.  The boys enjoyed a tripot stew of lamb, beef and chicken in a spicy Caribbean sauce and the girls had fish.  On Morazadeh’s recommendation we all tried wasabi mashed potatoes which were quite spicy.  Morazadeh headed home today and will arrive in time to celebrate Noelle’s 39^th birthday at home.  Margi plans on heading home in a few days.  We will miss their company as will the dogs.  Speaking of dogs, they are not allowed to go ashore in St Lucia which is very sad for them and for us.  I am trying to contact the government vet to get an exception but we are on island time, mon.  Some pictures from the crossing are below:

Day 12 and moving very slowly.

It is amazing and something we did not predict at all, but there just isn’t any wind out here. We motored for 4 days straight, day 4 through 8, and then decided that fuel consumption was something which needed to be managed. We found the trade winds and were delighted to raise the sails and turn off the engines. Unfortunately, even the trades have died down, leaving us bobbing in the waves and struggling to keep the sails full. We have just turned one of the engines back on. We are more than
half way there, but still, this is getting old. The temperature and humidity remind us of our proximity to the equator.

Today is Thanksgiving and Michael Moradzadeh is making turkey, mashed potato, gravy, coleslaw and cranberry sauce. Soon Aphrodite will smell like Thanksgiving and we will recall all that we have to be thankful for. Our perishable food supply is diminishing quickly but our freezer is still 3/4 full of frozen meat and fish. We have plenty of available beans, rice, noodles, and polenta; Margi continues to make breads everyday.

The dogs continue to do exceptionally well, considering the fact that they aren’t getting any exercise. The two of them have developed a strong bond. It is quite endearing to watch.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Bobbing along, singing a song, fuel half gone bye, bye, bye.

We have been motoring for the last 2 and half days, amazed at how flat calm the middle of the Atlantic Ocean can be. The good side of it is that we are having terrific dinners and plenty of sleep. We are not quite half way there, moving slower than planned since we are motoring instead of sailing, but the crew and dogs are content and enjoying the down time. We have a turkey for Thanksgiving next week and Margi has been making fresh bread, biscuits, cornbread etc almost every day. So far this
has been the MOST peaceful crossing Michael and I have ever had.

There isn’t anything new to report. We are in the midst of a windless pocket, looking forward to reaching the outer limits where the wind is predicted to be 15 - 20 kts which will give us a real boost towards our destination.

The dogs are doing much better than I expected. They too have settled into the rhythm of the sea and are entertaining themselves quite well. I continue to be amazed to realize that I actually prefer 2 dogs to 1. They are dear with each other, often found snuggling together in a corner or just hanging out together. Now when Brisa brings her toy to one of us to play we can say “go find Costa” and she will. She has been tempted to jump in a few times, once yesterday while Michael was reeling in
a big dolphin fish. Now they both go into the kennel before a fish is reeled in.

It has been a month since Michael’s surgery and he healing really well. Thank goodness for that.

See cayenne.blogharbor.com for additional postings of our crossing.

We are bobbing along. Wind, no wind, variable direction wind, not the expected trade winds. Light wind expected tomorrow as well. Getting lots of books read, good meals made, and Margi made cinnamon buns today, yum! We have completed 1100 of the 2800 KM. The dogs use the trampolines for their constitutional so we’ve taken to calling call them the “poop-deck.” We continue posting our position report but skip the text updates unless we have something better to say.

Day 4 crossing the Atlantic and all continues to be well.

The winds have increased to 13-15 kts., keeping our sails full and forward progress strong and steady. We have had opportunities to use both the full spinnaker and the asymmetrical spinnaker.

Meals are still gourmet and plentiful. Last night we had a standing rib roast, baked potatoes, roasted beets, flat green beans and freshly baked bread. Tonight we are having swordfish with that luscious candied ginger sour cream and cream cheese sauce and pesto pasta. This morning Margi made home made biscuits with sausage gravy.

The dogs are getting a little restless. With 4 of us onboard they aren’t allowed too much rough housing. We encountered a pod of dolphins yesterday and Brisa went nuts! She ran from the front of the boat to the rear trying to figure out how to join them. At one point she was at the back of the boat, on the lowest step closest to the water with the dolphins right then, just a leap away. She knows the word dolphin after seeing them only twice, amazing. I made the mistake of telling her “go find
the dolphins” and she ran right out to the bow, then back to the stern, forward again on and on with the little guy flying behind her. At one point they started sliding and I was afraid they were going to slide right off the boat! Costa does amazing well on the boat. With most issues he defers to Brisa except their shared eating bowl, especially when there are bones in there. Then he gathers up everything and hoards them, growling at her every time she tries to get in there to get her share.
Once she gets her’s she runs up to the front of the boat or on top of the roof where he can’t get to.

Our watch schedule is wonderful, allowing plenty of time for sleep.

We are hoping the rest of the trip will continue to be as enjoyable.

We have made 330 NM in 48 hrs with light winds. Currently flying the large asymmetrical spinnaker and making 7-8 knots. Tomorrow the winds are expected to increase a bit. Michael M won 2 Scrabble games but lost badly at rummy 500. Margi baked bread and Jeri made homemade soup, prime rib and pesto pasta for dinner. The dogs are wondering if the humans will eat all the food. Michael M says “help me, help me, they are roasting beets what kind of a hell ship are we on?” We are on a Swedish watch
system with 4 hour watches during the day and 3 hours at night which rotates us around the clock and gives us time to hang together and get plenty of rest.

With a brief “prayer” for our safe journey, we departed Las Palmas, Grand Canaria at 4 PM on Nov 15th. After an hour of motoring the winds filled in to 14 kts and we sailed until 8 AM on the 16th, then the winds died and we started motoring. We are starting to get enough wind to motor sail although the dogs need rougher weather to settle down. Our 4 PM position is 165 M SW of the Grand Canaries at 26.19N, 16.36W making 8.0kts on heading 249 M. Everyone seems to be adjusting to life at sea with
good food and great company. Let the games begin!

Michael Morazadeh joined us in the Canaries. Margi Sells arrives tomorrow. Our spinnaker has been repaired and the engine mechanic comes Friday. It is likely that we will depart Saturday for St Lucia. We will post our log as we are sailing.

Madeira is part of an archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, 300m off the north western coast of Africa and about 600m from Europe.  It was discovered by the Portuguese in 1418 and like all things Portuguese, in our opinion, it is a jewel.  The island is small, 35m long and 13m wide, but mighty in its strength of character, lush vegetation and majestic scenery.  The steep mountainous relief is stunning as the patch work plots of terraced land clings and drops directly into the sea.  During our time here we have been graced with daily showers which have given rise to countless rainbows shinning thru the mist hovering over the top of the mountains.

The island is referred to as The Garden Island; a better description could not be bestowed upon this lovely place.  In addition to the abundance of tropical plants and flowers flowing naturally all over the island there are gorgeous parks and fountains springing up all over the city.  If you have been to Victoria, BC than you have an idea of the abundance of beauty and charm which can be found here.  One of the most unique and charming characteristic of Portugal are the patterned inlaid stone mosaic sidewalks found everywhere, not just in the old city areas.   My favorite ones are of the oldest style and found extensively in the multitude of parks and gardens where they take on the appearance of pathways rather than sidewalks.  Each smooth stone is carefully and artistically placed on its side, not flat, bumpered up against its neighboring stone, in intricate patterns which are only discernable by close inspection and appreciation.

We have been here much longer than expected but I have loved every minute of it.   We are anchored in a lovely harbor with easy access to a dinghy dock and many shopping areas within walking distance.  There is a beach for the dogs, and many fresh water fountains for them to rinse the salt water off along our regularly walked paths.  The Portuguese are wonderful people.  I know I have said that many times before.  We cannot be in a better place to have Michael’s ankle fracture repaired and adequate time for healing.   They are loving, tolerant and welcoming.  Michael is extremely pleased with the medical care he has received, with few if any of the common complexities and cost characteristic in the US.  We rented a car for 2 days so we could see more of the island without putting undue stress on Michael’s leg.

Now, for a “doggy” update:

 Costa is everything Brisa is not.  He is calm, undemanding, content and generally a big ole bundle of love with soft fluffy hair.  Brisa is still Brisa, incredibly smart, bossy and in need of nearly constant challenge, either physically or intellectually.  I have a few really funny Brisa stories.   One day I left both dogs in the kennel for a few hours to go visit Michael in the hospital.  When I got back to the boat I let the dogs out of the kennel but continued doing the laundry instead of paying attention to the dogs.  Brisa wanted to go to the beach.  When she didn’t feel like waiting any longer she jumped into the floating dinghy and started barking at me.  I thought she was barking because the dinghy had drifted a little too far from the boat preventing her from leaping back onto the boat, but no, she wanted to go for a boat ride, to the beach!   I continued with the laundry and a few minutes later when I was finishing up I looked back and Costa had joined her in the dinghy but she dove into the water and was swimming around, just letting me know that she was indeed ready to go play!

Another time I purposely put both of them outside and closed the sliding glass door.  Usually Brisa hops up onto the bench under the window and lays her front paws thru the opening barking at me.  I closed the window.  A few minutes later she found the lanyard of the ship’s bell and started ringing the bell! 

Yesterday I was rewarding Costa with hugs and attention after he trotted up to the trampolines to go potty all by himself, without being directed to do so.  Well, Brisa felt left out.  She can be a really spiteful bitch at times.  A few minutes later I found 2 perfectly laid turds just inside the door!

The stories go on and on.  I am shocked at how much I love having both onboard.  Costa has been a terrific addition and as soon as he is old enough to really chase Brisa around on the beach and compete with retrieving the ball in the water I think we will have a much better way to manage the exercise demands of Number 1.

Today is Sunday, Nov. 2.  We will be departing for the Canary Islands as soon as we post this update and take one last look at the weather prediction.   This passage should only take 40 hours.   We will meet Mike and Margi within the next week or so.  They will join us to cross the Atlantic Ocean.  Most likely we will sail from the Canary Islands, after Nov. 15^th, to the Cape Verde Islands which will give us a more favorable jumping off place to find the trade winds.  Landfall is planned for St. Lucia about 10 days following our departure from Cape Verde.  We should be back on your side of the Atlantic Ocean early in December.